October 29, 2018 5:00 AM

At the Pulau Mas fish cages, about a 45-minute boat ride from Labuan Bajo on the island of Flores in eastern Indonesia, modest wooden fishing boats about 12m in length pull up. One by one, they disgorge their sleep-deprived crew. Bleary-eyed and looking much older than their years after three nights at sea, they each proffer live bounty to be weighed, sold and stowed for a long trip, likely to a table in Hong Kong.

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